How this power station calculator works (quick overview)
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Your battery’s capacity (Wh) — this is energy. (Think of it as the size of your “fuel tank.”) Authoritative definitions: power is watts (W); energy is watt‑hours (Wh) or kilowatt‑hours (kWh).
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Your device power (W) — the rate your gear consumes energy.
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Loss factors — mostly the AC inverter (DC→AC) and small internal draws. High‑quality sine‑wave inverters typically run ~90–95% efficient and have idle/low‑load behavior you should account for. Efficiency varies with load.
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Charging power (W) — wall, vehicle, or solar input to estimate recharge time. The basic approach (capacity ÷ charger power) appears in many guides and calculators.
Key terms (30‑second refresh)
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Watt (W) = power (rate).
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Wh from a battery (when only Ah & V are given): Wh ≈ Volts × Amp‑hours. (Example from Battery University: 14.4 V × 2.5 Ah ≈ 36 Wh.)
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Inverter (DC→AC): converts battery DC to AC; conversion is never 100% efficient and depends on load and temperature.
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Continuous vs surge (peak) inverter rating: continuous is what it can deliver steadily; surge is a brief, higher output to start motors/compressors.
The three core formulas (bookmark these)
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Runtime (AC path, using the inverter)
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Use ηAC = 0.90–0.95 for a modern sine‑wave inverter (lower if you run at very light loads or in hot conditions).
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Runtime (DC path, bypassing the inverter)
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Use ηDC ≈ 0.95 as a planning number when you can run the device directly from regulated DC outputs (no AC inversion). (Losses still exist, just typically smaller.)
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Recharge time
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This rule‑of‑thumb is widely used in portable‑power and EV contexts for rough planning. Real charge curves taper near full; assume a little extra time for “the last 10–20%.”
Step‑by‑step: use the portable power station calculator
Step 1 — List your loads & watts
Step 2 — Add them up
Step 3 — Convert duty cycle to average load (optional)
Step 4 — Pick your loss factor
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AC path: adopt ηAC 0.90–0.95 based on reputable ranges for pure sine inverters (and remember efficiency varies by load).
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DC path: if your device supports DC input, plan with ηDC ≈ 0.95 and skip the inverter.
Step 5 — Calculate runtime
Step 6 — Calculate recharge time
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Vehicle 12/24 V: divide by the DC input wattage (often 100–300 W).
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Solar: see the “solar section” to add peak sun hours.
Worked examples (copy these patterns)
Example A — Laptop + lamp at a campsite
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Battery: 512 Wh
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Loads: laptop 65 W + lamp 10 W = 75 W
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Path: AC, ηAC = 0.92
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Runtime: (512 × 0.92) ÷ 75 ≈ 6.28 hours
Example B — Blender bursts while cooking
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Battery: 1,024 Wh
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Load: blender 900 W for 10 minutes total usage
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Energy used: 900 W × (10/60 h) = 150 Wh
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AC losses: divide by 0.92 → plan ~163 Wh used
Example C — CPAP overnight on DC (humidifier off)
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Battery: 500 Wh
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Load: ~7 W (typical low‑power therapy profile; actual varies by device/pressure)
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Path: DC, ηDC = 0.95
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Runtime: (500 × 0.95) ÷ 7 ≈ 67.9 hours (~8+ nights at 8 h/night)
Choosing inverter size (continuous vs surge)
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Continuous rating: what the inverter can supply steadily without overheating or tripping. This should comfortably exceed your total running watts.
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Surge (peak) rating: a short burst (often a few seconds) to start motors/compressors. A 3,000 W inverter might list a 6,000 W surge so it can start fridges, AC compressors, or power tools.
How to calculate power output needs
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Sum of running watts for everything you’ll run at once (layer #1).
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Add surge needs for any inductive loads (layer #2). Your inverter must satisfy both.
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Energy budget (layer #3): total Wh you’ll consume over time = (average W) × hours. EIA’s definition makes the concept intuitive: kWh is simply kilowatts times hours.
Recharge time: wall, car, and solar
Wall AC charging
Vehicle (12/24 V) charging
Solar charging (add peak sun hours)
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Daily energy from solar (Wh/day) ≈ Panel Watts × PSH × system efficiency.
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System efficiency bundles losses (angle, heat, wiring, controller). For quick math, many people use ~70–80% as a rule of thumb.
Handy tables (ready‑to‑use planning numbers)
Runtime quick‑look (AC path @ ηAC = 0.92)
|
Battery (Wh)
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50 W load
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100 W load
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300 W load
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600 W load
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300
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5.5 h
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2.8 h
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0.9 h
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0.46 h
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500
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9.2 h
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4.6 h
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1.5 h
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0.77 h
|
|
1,000
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18.4 h
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9.2 h
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3.1 h
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1.54 h
|
|
2,000
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36.8 h
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18.4 h
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6.1 h
|
3.08 h
|
|
5,000
|
92.0 h
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46.0 h
|
15.3 h
|
7.7 h
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Recharge quick‑look (ideal math before taper)
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Battery (Wh)
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120 W car
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300 W car/solar
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600 W wall
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1,200 W wall
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300
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2.5 h
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1.0 h
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0.5 h
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0.25 h
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|
500
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4.2 h
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1.7 h
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0.8 h
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0.42 h
|
|
1,000
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8.3 h
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3.3 h
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1.7 h
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0.83 h
|
|
2,000
|
16.7 h
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6.7 h
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3.3 h
|
1.67 h
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Pro tips to get more runtime from the same battery
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Prefer DC when possible. Bypassing the inverter reduces losses, especially for small night‑time loads.
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Batch energy‑heavy tasks. Cook/boil during daylight while solar is strongest; save night for low loads.
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Mind low‑load efficiency. Inverters have efficiency curves; at tiny loads, the idle/overhead can dominate. If your unit has eco mode, use it.
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Leave surge headroom. For motor loads, size the inverter for both continuous and surge.
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Keep it cool. High temperature reduces output and can push fans louder; some manufacturers show derating with temperature on datasheets.
Frequently Asked Questions
The bottom line
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Runtime: (Wh × efficiency) ÷ watts.
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